Spring & Varick (SoHo, NYC) Restaurant Review

Desperate for cover, hungry and without an umbrella on a rainy Saturday night after a memorable Virtual Reality event during the Tribeca Film Festival, we needed a restaurant that was:

  1. still open, and serving food at 10:15 PM
  2. as close as possible to 50 Varick St and:
  3. ideally delicious and satisfying.

And so we fired up the OpenTable app. The time was calling for efficiency, not originality. The map feature was going to be our guide. Our first stop (i.e. the most proximate attempt) would be at La Sirène, a French restaurant that looked to be quite okay, but we were somewhat unimpressed by its menu.

Giving the app another shot, we came across Spring & Varick, called them up to check whether they were still serving, and when told the kitchen would close at 10:45 PM, we soldiered through the remaining block and a half. The menu looked good, and upon arrival, the restaurant too looked quite sleek and familiar. We didn’t quite realize it yet, but we were at the location of the former Trump SoHo hotel!

Without further ado, here are the highlights of our first experience:

  • Location: located at the intersection of Spring & Varick (hence the name!) in SoHo, the restaurant is easily accessed by both the Spring St (C, E) and Canal St (1) subway stations. It occupies a 2,800 sq ft space inside the The Dominick Hotel (the only Five-Diamond property in SoHo and rebranded version of the Trump SoHo). The restaurant accommodates “90 seats with additional private dining rooms on the mezzanine level” as per the official website. It officially opened in November 2017 and we visited April 2018, about 6 months post-opening.
  • Food: very, very good contemporary American food. We had the S&V burger (Pat LaFrieda Blend, Tempura Comte, on a Pretzel Bun), as well as the scallops in parnsip puree with a side of Brussels sprouts and “Charred Baby Carrots with Za’atar Yogurt”. Simply put, the burger is amazing: original (who knew tempura comte was a thing? We now do but it feels too late!) and delicious. The scallops and sides were very good, but a step down compared to the burger. Overall a very strong 4/5 in this category.
  • Service: we were unfortunately not impressed. Service was the weakest part of the experience. While the waiter was friendly, the push for extra drinks (“can I get you another one”? “hmm no my glass is still half full, but thanks”) was a bit irritating, and the knowledge of both the food and drinks menu was limited. We were also charged extra for the fries-to-Brussels sprouts substitution (which is fair) but were only told after the fact when food was brought, not beforehand. A mixed 3/5.
  • Atmosphere: contemporary, modern, well thought out, though it feels obvious that the restaurant is part of a hotel. Their website lists that “highlights and amenities include private and semi-private seating, state of the art sound & audio systems, rotating art by local artists” which seems pretty nice. We’ll give it a 3.5.
  • Price & value: the second weakest part of our experience. While we are very well aware of NYC restaurant pricing (been living and eating here for over 10 years now!), we felt that the price was on the high side. The scallop entree and wine glasses in particular felt pricey and small. One of these two is perfectly okay, but not both at the same time! A modest 2.5/5 here. S&V will however be fine for those on expense accounts or attending events.
  • Would we go again?  Perhaps, if we find ourselves again in the neighborhood (funnily enough a fellow review exactly agrees with that assessment!) We do recommend the burger though…and would come back just for it!

Our verdict: a mixed 3.5 out of 5 overall for this modern, sleek hotel restaurant in SoHo.

More pics to follow (we’ll be posting a few on our Instagram over the next coming days), but here’s a quick look at the S&V burger, from their own account:

And a couple of additional useful links:

Anything else you’d like to know? Let us know in the comments! Also interested in additional feedback from others who’s tried this fairly new addition to the SoHo restaurant scene.

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